Professional Decontamination Services, LLC

Office (706) 781-6778
Fax (706) 781-6778
Toll Free: 877-SOS-RADON - (877-767-7236)

How Radon is Mitigated

 

We guarantee your radon level will be reduced to below 4pCi/L according to EPA standards.


Mitigation Systems
There are two most common types of mitigation systems. They are sub-slab depressurization and sub-membrane depressurization systems. A sub-slab system pulls the air from underneath the concrete floor in the basement area. A hole is made through the floor, along an outside wall preferably, and then a ventilation pipe is sealed into the hole and routed to the exterior. A fan is installed in the pipe to create a constant vacuum to draw the air/gas from under the slab. A sub-membrane system is used in crawl spaces and under sub-floors. A plastic membrane is used to seal the soil area and the vent system then draws the air/gas out from under the plastic membrane. Depending on the type of system and the quantity of materials needed the cost can vary. The most basic of sub-slab depressurization systems begin at $1200.

With either system, only the highest quality materials are used during the installation, assuring many years of worry free service.

Our lead installation tech has installed hundreds of systems and is experienced in seeking out options as to where, and how, to install and rout a system for optimum performance as well as being aesthetically pleasing.


 

 

 

How Radon is Mitigated
You will never find a level of ZERO in any radon test. Even outdoor air typically has 0.2 to 0.7 pCi/l of radon. However, when a home or building is found to have radon levels that can be considered hazardous, action can be taken to reduce it to acceptable levels. There are several methods that can be used to permanently correct this problem.

The most common approach is what is known as “Active Soil Depressurization” or “ASD.” This method involves drawing the soil gasses (including radon) from the soils that are directly adjacent to the structure. In order for this method to be effective, a sealed barrier between the home and the soil must be available to divert the radon out-gassing away from the home.
In a home with a basement, the concrete slab acts as a barrier between the home and the soil. In this case, a PVC pipe penetrates the slab through an existing opening (such as a sealed-off sump basin) or through a hole in the slab that is created with a coring drill. There is usually a small void between the slab and the soil which allows soil gasses (including radon) to collect, become pressurized, and eventually drawn into the home. Once the radon pipe is inserted into this void area and a suction fan is installed, the radon is drawn into the system and released outdoors. This method is known as sub-slab depressurization and is the most common type of ASD systems.

Other forms of ASD work in a similar manner. For example, homes without basements may use the hollow cavities within the block-wall(s) or drain-tile pipes(s) to collect the radon gas and draw it outside before it can enter the home. Homes with exposed dirt or gravel crawl space areas can be mitigated by the use of a plastic membrane installed over the exposed area. Then the pipe and fan system draw the air (and radon) out from under the plastic membrane and release it outdoors.

99% of all radon problems can be corrected by use of Active Soil Depressurization. This is the preferred method of radon mitigation since it primarily involves extracting air from beneath the home’s foundation (which is the air from soil, or “dirty” air.) Since these systems are designed to avoid the loss of “conditioned” (heated or cooled) air from the home, they have very little impact on the efficiency of the home. There are other advantages to having an ASD system in your home. The systems draw moisture out from under the home before it can enter (like a pre-emptive dehumidifier), and have also been shown to reduce mold spore growth, and eliminate airborne bacteria (which develops in the moist soil beneath the home.
Other methods of reducing radon usually involve exchanging the inside air with outside air. This is known as “dilution.” Although dilution can be an effective way of reducing a home’s radon level, it is not practical because of the cost involved in heating and cooling inside air. Imagine the impact on your heating bill if you left windows open in the wintertime.
The most important thing to realize is that a radon problem can be corrected in any home. A home with a radon mitigation system will consistently have radon levels well below the average American home regardless of how high the radon levels were prior to mitigation.

radon reduction techniquesAny information that you may have about the construction of your house could help your contractor choose the best system. Your contractor will perform a visual inspection of your house and design a system that considers specific features of your house. If this inspection fails to provide enough information, the contractor will need to perform diagnostic tests during the initial phase of the installation to help develop the best radon reduction system for your home. For instance, your contractor can use chemical smoke to find the source and direction of air movement. A contractor can learn air flow sources and directions by watching a small amount of smoke that he or she shot into holes, drains, sumps, or along cracks. The sources of air flow show possible radon routes.  A contractor may have concerns about backdrafting of combustion appliances when considering radon mitigation options, and may recommend that the homeowner have the appliance(s) checked by a qualified inspector.

Another type of diagnostic test is a "soil communication test." This test uses a vacuum cleaner and chemical smoke to determine how easily air can move from one point to another under the foundation. By inserting a vacuum cleaner hose in one small hole and using chemical smoke in a second small hole, a contractor can see if the smoke is pulled down into the second hole by the force of the vacuum cleaner's suction. Watching the smoke during a soil communication test helps a contractor decide if certain radon reduction systems would work well in your house.

Whether diagnostic tests are needed is decided by details specific to your house, such as the foundation design, what kind of material is under your house, and by the contractor's experience with similar houses and similar radon test results.

House Foundation Types

Your house type will affect the kind of radon reduction system that will work best. Houses are generally categorized according to their foundation design. For example: basement, slab-on-grade (concrete poured at ground level), or crawlspace (a shallow unfinished space under the first floor). Some houses have more than one foundation design feature. For instance, it is common to have a basement under part of the house and to have a slab-on-grade or crawlspace under the rest of the house. In these situations a combination of radon reduction techniques may be needed to reduce radon levels to below 4 pCi/L.

Radon reduction systems can be grouped by house foundation design. Find your type of foundation design above and read about which radon reduction systems may be best for your house.